Thursday, September 23, 2010

The splendors of the royal Château de Blois


Happily situated in downtown Blois (Loir-et-Cher department) and heading the castles dominating the famous Loire Valley in France, Château de Blois has been for a long time a must on my list, ever since I fell in love with the history of the French monarchy. My dream finally came true and when I first caught a glimpse over the castle towers, I daresay I had tears in my eyes and probably a stupid smile of my face. I am actually coming back to my roots to discover the places I longed for so eagerly. Here are just a few names whose lives are related to the story of the castle – Louis XII, Anne de Bretagne, François I, queen Claude, queen Catherine de Médicis, Henri II, François II, Marie Stuart, Charles IX, Henri de Navarre (future Henri IV), Marguerite de Navarre, Henri III, the Duke of Guise, Marie de Médicis and finally… Louise de la Vallière.
Makes me tremble when I think about all the events that happened in this royal seat over so many centuries, especially the 16th, during the horrors of the wars of religion and the decline of the Valois dynasty.
 

The initial citadel dates from the 9th century and it was only meant to protect the locals from frequent Viking invasions. It was the Blois counts who owned the castle for several generations, until it came into the possession of Louis d'Orléans in 1392, the king’s brother, subsequently being attached to the crown.

The first significant reconstruction of the château took place under the orders of Louis XII who made Blois his seat, showing a special bond with this wonderful piece of land and aiming to express by its architecture the power of the royalty and the artistic magnificence of those times.  Erected in 1508 and adorned with the porcupine of Louis XII and the ermine of Anne of Brittany, the Louis XII wing displayed quite a modern layout for the beginning of the 16th century. It combines visible Gothic and some Renaissance elements.

François I was especially fond of Blois and took good care to continue the work of his predecessor by attaching a new wing - entirely a Renaissance chef-d’oeuvre, directly influenced by Italian art.  The sophistication of the newly architectural style is reflected in the façade des Loges and culminates with the famous spiral staircase, yet praised and admired by many modern architects. Some say it was Leonardo da Vinci himself who got this idea of asymmetry and innovation. The ornaments are mostly of Italian inspiration, marked by refined bas-relief sculptures. When the sun is shining, the entire façade seems to be brightened by a certain magic luminosity that highlights pleasant contours and evokes the sense of immortality.
As to the library created by François I at the château, although later on moved to Fontainebleau, it clearly constituted a novelty and showed the keen interest of the king for arts and science along with an acute concern for perpetuation.

The castle hosted some happy events, as the engagement of Henri de Navarre & Marguerite Valois, along with some tragic ones, namely the assassination of the Duke of Guise on the occasion of the Estates-General convention held at Blois in December 1588, under the orders of Henri III.  In this context, it is worth mentioning that Blois was the setting for the famous Mary Stuart’s childhood, before she became the wife of François II (who unluckily died a few months after their coronation) and queen of France.

The second wife of Henri IV, Marie de Médicis, spent several years at the castle, placed under house arrest by her son, Louis XIII. Her presence determined some significant improvements that were taken over in 1634 by Gaston d’Orléans, the king’s brother. He actually initiated the construction of the third wing, true mirror of French classicism: allegorical figures, coved ceilings and elegant effects. Due to some circumstances that led to scarcity of funds, the newest wing remained unfinished.

It is not until 1841 that the château de Blois was acknowledged as historic monument and a serious restoration began under the direction of Felix Duban, who seems to have made miracles, because what we actually see today is a fine, almost 100% imitation of what used to be the castle by the middle of the 17th century.

Naturally, the interior decorations and furniture hardly respect the initial disposition of rooms, but the main attractions have been successfully reestablished, and that’s the most important thing: the Royal Apartments, the Queen’s Gallery (Catherine de Médicis), the Queen’s Chamber, the King’s Chamber, the Room of des Guises, the Council Room, all situated in the François I wing. Furthermore, the oldest wing of the château hosts the Musée des Beaux-Arts.

It’s a little bit confusing to stand before such an intermingling of obviously different architectural styles (Gothic, Renaissance and Classic) but it shows progression and a vivid expression of evolution in art.

Of course, it wouldn’t be fair to allege that Blois is my favorite French royal castle, because I love them all, but let’s say it has a special place in my heart. At the château de Blois I feel like being home. I rediscover myself as I never did before.

For more pictures of Blois click here

Saturday, September 18, 2010

Castelul Amboise – mostenire renascentista pe valea Loirei


Amboise este unul dintre castelele mele preferate in Franta; in primul rand pentru ca reprezinta expresia vie a artei arhitecturale din perioada Renasterii si in al doilea rand pentru ca istoria lui este legata intrinsec de numele lui François I, regele ctitor si morarhul deschizator de drumuri care a contribuit la inflorirea Frantei pe plan intern si extern in prima jumatate a secolului 16.
Bineinteles, mai subzista elemente medievale in ansamblul constructiei, situata in mod fericit chiar pe malul Loirei, pe o culme care ofera si avantajul unui peisaj magnific, ce poate fi admirat de pe terasele castelului, la inaltime destul de mare.
Si apoi, multa lume cand spune "Amboise" se gandeste imediat la Leonardo da Vinci, geniul sculptor si pictor (dar nu numai, sa nu uitam numeroasele sale inventii tehnice care au avut efectul unei revolutii). Acesta si-a petrecut ultimii ani din viata la Amboise, ce-i drept locuind in apropiere (la Clos-Lucé) dar fiind prezent mereu in preajma regelui pentru a pune in practica ideile sale extraordinare.
Recunosc, eu m-am dus la Amboise pentru François I si imaginea lui, atat de pierduta in timp, dar care inca mai domina locul in mod evident, dupa 5 secole. Dar, chiar si inainte de el, Amboise a fost multa vreme considerat un punct strategic pe valea Loirei, sa amintim cel putin asezarea care exista aici in antichitate, reuniunea dintre Clovis si regele vizigotilor in 504, dar si fortificatia medievala cea mai protejata din zona in acele timpuri. Incepand cu 1434 castelul este confiscat de regele Frantei Charles VII si devine domeniu regal, fiind locuinta preferata a lui Charles VIII. El este cel care decide sa extinda si sa infrumuseteze fortificatia medievala invitand artisti italieni la curte. Aceastia reusesc sa transforme Amboise intr-un veritabil palat. Opera sa este continuata de Louis XII dar mai ales de François I.
Stau si ma intreb daca nu cumva acest François I a fost un fel de Stefan cel Mare al nostru, atat de mester si priceput la toate, cu un spirit artistic desavarsit si manuitor de arme. Prezenta lui am simtit-o cu aceeasi pregnanta la Fontainebleau, Blois, Saint-Germain-en-Laye. Omul acesta pe unde a calcat a lasat ceva frumos in urma lui…
Revenind la castelul Amboise (nu pot sa-l numesc palat, pentru ca are mai mult alura de castel), Henri II si-a adus si el aportul in ceea ce priveste dezvoltarea arhitecturala a domeniului. Incepand cu Henri III regalitatea pierde cu totul interesul pentru Amboise, preferand alte locuinte, astfel incat castelul este folosit multa vreme mai mult sau mai putin drept inchisoare de lux pentru personaje din viata politica. Tot ce s-a intamplat dupa aceea este mult prea dureros ca sa poata fi povestit si e o minune astazi ca o mare parte din ce a fost odata s-a pastrat sau a fost restaurat cu blandete.
Interiorul foarte frumos este decorat cu piese de mobilier ce imita epocile respective, a caror poveste o putem afla de la ghidul ce insoteste grupurile de vizitatori. Salle du Conseil, Salle des gardes, Chambre de Henri II – minunate! Am fost realmente fascinata de turnul Minimes, in care urci fara sa-ti dai seama ca intr-o spirala, mirosind peretii impregnati de atatea secole de istorie.
Gradinile nu sunt atat de vaste cum ma asteptam si nici la fel de frumoase ca la Fontainebleau dar merita vizitate. Interesant este ca totul se afla undeva la intaltime, iar cand parasesti castelul si ajungi in strada ai senzatia ca ai coborat dintr-o alta lumea. Straduta din fata intrarii este animata de o multime de terase, restaurante si buticuri de unde poti cumpara diverse suveniruri personalizate.

Concluzie: Amboise, un loc mirific ce debordeaza de istorie... Un loc ce ne face sa ne inchinam celor care au pus umarul cu atata drag si daruire la construirea unui asemenea edificiu durabil dar si sa ne punem intrebari. Oare ce cladire construita in secolul 20 va rezista macar un secol? Nici una... dar oare ei cum reuseau pe vremuri? Sa fie oare secretul jertvei umane sau un interes mai mare pentru viitor?
Photos Amboise


Tuesday, September 14, 2010

Smiling - a healthy & constructive approach to life

Ever since I can remember, I have been living in a world of stress, tears, worries and fear thinking that it is the way life is supposed to be, and there is nothing we can do to change the portfolio of our attitudes and approvals. But lately I have had the chance to get in touch with another universe of behavior, considerations and state of mind. I am not saying that French people are perfect, but at least they know how to preserve their level-headedness and no matter the situation they face it with a pure and innocent smile that already solves half the problem. Their attitude towards life is genuinely healthy and constructive. No nerves, no yelling, no resentment, no hatred, no envy. Everyone minds his own business, smiling and showing compassion or understanding towards the other.

I used to wonder whether the Romanian innate spirit of curiosity and evilness was to condemn or to pity. Now I am quite sure that I would never be happy as long as I think and act as a Romanian/Moldavian, dominated by anxiety, irrational mistrust, a sense of rage and betrayal. It’s simply not healthy. As a proof to that, being in Bucharest for 8 years made me very sick and brought me to a state of great tension and frustration with my life. I am now quite resolute: there is no happiness when spending nights awake worrying about money, family issues or disputes at work. No. The only chance to have a normal life and achieve contentment is to live in a healthy society where people smile at you sincerely and do not curse you behind your back, where they do not interfere but when asked to do so, always in a very gentle way, to avoid any offenses, misunderstandings or hidden meanings.
I am now eager to reshape my perspective on life according to some new values.

Sunday, September 12, 2010

Dreams coming true

Louvre – visited (2009)
Château de Versailles – visited (2009)
Château de Vincennes – visited (2009)
Château de Saint-Germain-en-Laye – visited (2009)
Château de Fontainebleau – visited (2009) 

Basilique de Saint-Denis – visited (2009)
Château d’Amboise – visited (2010)
Château royal de Blois – visited (2010)

Yet to come : Chambord, Chenonceau, Clos-lucé, Saumur, Chinon, Angers, etc.

Wednesday, September 1, 2010

Premières impressions sur Tours


Une ville magique, aux boulevards animés, pleins de touristes en centre, des rues presque vides pendant toute la journée, avec des maisons mignonnes, beaucoup de brasseries attractives, magasins chics, églises anciennes...

J’ai déjà compris où est le nord et où est le sud, voilà un progrès après seulement deux jours! :))
Les distances sont acceptables, du coup la marche à pied est une activité ordinaire pour les habitants de Tours. Un peu fatiguant pour une fille aux talons comme moi, mais je crois que je m’habituerai très vite!










Photos Tours